Day 11 - Saturday 22 August

Rained all night and we were up early so that we could head for Esperance because one of the Authorised Inspection Stations said that they would be open. Because of the inclement weather Deb and I headed off a little before Jan and Bernie.

Jan and Bernie caught up with us in Esperance and Bernie was able to get a new battery for his break away braking system.  I rang round and Super cheap auto had one for $50.  Bernie and I went to a battery shop and got a much better one for $30.  Super shoppers.  We then went to the inspection station and they were not open so we decided to head for the caravan park.

The caravan park was called the "Pink Lake Caravan Park". Evidently there is a lake nearby that is pink.  I think Deb and I tried to find it the last time we visited Esperance.  Deb, who is our tour guide, looked up things to do in Esperance and one thing that looked good was Mermaid Leather.  Mermaid Leather is a tannery that tans fish skin into leather.  There are quite a number of fish used including shark.  They don't use mermaids.

Selection of Fish Leather

The darker Leather is Shark

There are a heap of products that are made from the fish leather.  It has an interesting texture.  The scales are removed and where the scales were attached to the fish little pockets are left to give the leather a unique look.  The shark leather is very interesting because it has little teeth on it and is very rough.  It will also stick together in a similar manner to Velcro.  The shins that are used are a by-product of the fishing industry and would otherwise end up as land fill.

Some Products made from Fish Leather

Paper Made with the flock from the back of the leather.  

That is the colour in the paper

After our visit to Mermaid Leather we went downtown to do some grocery shopping.  Even on the road you have to eat.  Jen and Bernie went to report to the police that they weren't able to get the caravan inspected.  Unfortunately there was no one there.  It seems that the station desk is only manned from Monday to Friday.

We are going to do some sightseeing tomorrow, possibly to Cape Le Grand where there are some nice beaches and I believe some very nice free camping sites. 

Day 12 - Sunday 23 August

A really nice day today.  Didn't have to go anywhere so didn't have to get up early. Stayed in the caravan park most of the morning and did some washing and drying.  Deb got the new clothes line that doesn't need pegs strung under the awning. It works really well.

After completing our laundry duties we headed off for Cape Le Grand.  One of the free camping spots there got selected as the best coastal camp.  We had visited the area in 2011 when we came over last and thought it might be nice to see if it was as good as we remembered.  The beaches are absolutely beautiful, white sand and beautiful blue sea.  There are a couple of shades of blue as well.

Looking towards Esperance from Cape Le Grand

Cape Le Grand is a National Park and you have to pay a fee as you enter.  It is an honour system, so we filled out the envelope, inserted our $12 and our conscience was clear.  While we were doing the right thing a few cars went through without stopping.

Lucky Bay is the site that was selected as the best coastal site.  It wasn't free however.  There was a fee of $10 per night for normal people and $6.20 for concession holders.  I reckon the views were worth that. We had a look at a couple more beaches in the park. It would have been a much nicer experience if it hadn't been raining with a bitter wind accompanying the rain.

Looking over Lucky Bay - There was a lot of rain when we were there 

We had a kebab for lunch when we got back.  They were very good.  Jan likes kebabs and likes to compare them from various places.  This one got a thumbs up.

Visited the Esperance Hospital to get the dressing on my neck changed.  When the triage nurse had a look she said she would like the doctor to have a look.  We were there a little longer than planned but walked away with a prescription for a stronger anti biotic. Everything is healing well.

Day 13 - Monday 24 August

A longish day today.  We are going to Wave Rock tomorrow and are going to stay at a free camping spot in a town called Kulin.  The site has some very good reviews in Wiki Camps and the Australian Camping book.  It has showers and toilets on site and it is free.

The Donchi's caravan is now legal to take on the road.  It was taken to an authorised inspection station and it passed with flying colours.  The person doing the inspection was very thorough even taking out a tape measure to ensure that the caravan complied with the requirements for WA roads.

The road we are traveling on goes through what is called the Golden Wheat belt and the country is very undulating.  When you get to the top of hills you can see the road ahead as straight as a die and as far as the eye can see.  It passes through the towns of Lake King and Lake Grace and there are lakes everywhere.  They seem very shallow, but at least they have water in them. The car cruised along beautifully and pulled the caravan with ease.

We approached Kulin along the "Tin Horse Highway". Approximately 15 km either side of Kulin there are horses made out of drums or cans.  They are all painted up and in various humorous poses.  As we approached the sporting fields there was one done up as a golfer, one as a football player and another as a lady hockey player.

Some Examples of the Tin Horse Highway

We have unhooked Bernie's Landcruiser for our trip to wave rock. Evidently there is a bit of rough going so his car is the most appropriate.

Day 14 - Tuesday 25 August

Today we went to Wave Rock.  This is a large rock that has the shape of a wave would you believe.  It was formed through the action of erosion around a large outcrop of granite.  The rock itself forms part of a reservoir for the town of Hyden and the reservoir has been in use since 1921.  It was extended in 1954 and although is not the main source of water for the town now it is used as a backup when needed.

Wave Rock

Wave Rock came to prominence after an article in National Geographic in 1964. People started to come to have a look then and a is now a place that most people who visit Western Australia come to see.  The rock itself is smaller than I thought, not in height but in length.  The only thing we see before we get there is photographs and it is hard to get things in perspective.  Don't get me wrong, I am very glad I visited.

Hippo's Yawn

Another rock formation we visited was the Hippo's Yawn.  This is a cave where the rock overhang looks like the upper jaw of a hippopotamus and looks like a hippo having a big yawn.  We also visited a cave with some hand prints inside.  It is called Mulka's cave.  Legend has it that Mulka's was the illegal son of a woman who fell in love with a man with whom marriage was illegal. As a result of this he was born with crossed eyes. Even though he grew into a strong and tall mad he could not hunt successfully because he couldn't aim his spear with his crossed eyes.  In his frustration he resorted to catching and eating children.

Inside Mulka's Cave

His mother scolded him because of his anti-social behaviour so he killed her.  All the Aboriginal people set out to track him down and when they found him they killed him.  Because he didn't deserve a proper burial his body was left to the ants. not a very nice storey!

Our journey to wave rock took us to Hyden where we had morning tea at a very nice bakery.  The cafe area was nice bright and airy where we were able to enjoy our break.  We then went to wave rock where we had a good walk around. Bernie I climbed over the top and had an excellent view of the surrounding country.

On the return trip we stopped at the Lions Op Shop where Jan and Deb had a look around. Bernie and I had a look at the sculptures in the parking area adjacent to the highway where various characters from Hyden's past were depicted.  My favourite was Johnny the mechanic.  The area around here has only been settled and farmed since the beginning of the last century. Most of the area was surveyed from that time.

Johnny the Mechanic

We have found some interesting places to eat on our travels. Where we had lunch was a good example.  We stopped in Kondinin where there was CC's Cafe where you could have coffee and cake.  It was in a converted house with a lot of memorabilia on the walls.  There were 4 people working there and we had a really nice lunch.  At least it provided some employment in the town.

The town of Hyden that I have mentioned previously has a progress association that have instigated a number of tourist enterprises like the caravan park at Wave Rock that employs 78 people from the district.  Those 78 people would not be there but for this scheme.

Returned to Kulin about mid-afternoon and did a lap of the town. It is quite a nice little town with a population of just under 300.  The Shire of Kulin has an area of over 4000 square kilometres with a population of just over 850.  We did some shopping at the IGA which is well stocked and competitive. We have decided to spend a little bit of money in the town.  In the shower at the rest area there is a little note behind the door that says in return for your free wash, please give the local businesses some dosh.

We are going to stay tonight and tomorrow night.  Will have a quiet day tomorrow before venturing on.  Dinner tonight was at the pub which is just across the road.  We met a couple from Mooloolaba who have been on the road since May last year.  They did have a break when they went to Sweden to see their daughter for 6 weeks.  They are on their way home now.

The meal was quite nice, Deb had steak and vegetables and I had corned beef with mustard sauce and vegetables.

Day 15 - Wednesday 26 August

Quiet day around Kulin today.  Bernie and I went to the local museum that was in an old garage that was the local Ford dealer many years ago.  It wasn't open so we just had a look through the windows and had a look at the old machinery.  There was an old Chevrolet truck there and it looks like a 1932 model a friend of mine in Gunnedah has.  There was an old Model A Ford along with a number of old tractors in need of some TLC.  There is a lot of work to be done.

Our Caravans at the Free Camp at Kilin

I was looking in the hardware for some reflective tape yesterday but they didn't have any, however they suggested the local farm machinery supplier located about 150 metres away on the other side of the tracks.  The railway doesn't run anymore so we were able to walk to the wrong side of the tracks.  The people there were very helpful but didn't have any. They suggested the hardware.

Main Street of Kulin

Put some additional money into the town by having morning tea at the cafe in the hardware.  Nice coffee and slice.  The hardware has a very good selection of products and the prices were very competitive. The hardware/cafe also sell some very nice mens, ladies and kids clothes.

Hardware and Cafe

We used the gas BBQ in the park near the parking area to cook our lunch.  Another freebee. Press a button and the gas lights and heats up.  Had pork, kangaroo, potato slices and corn on the cob.

BBQ Area where we cooked Lunch

There is only one place to buy fuel in the town and it is an automated set up where you put in your credit card, fill up with fuel and then the cost is debited from your account.  The price per litre for diesel was $1.27 which is pretty good.  It wasn't until the receipt was printed that the seller of the fuel was the Shire of Kulin.  The local government are really looking after their town.

The blog is suffering because of the lack of power. (Because we are doing lot's of free camping)  I am using the laptop because it is easier to put photographs in and format the blog.  I am now doing all the typing on the iPad, sending the document to myself by email, copying it and then pasting it into the blog where I can add the pictures.  It works but takes time.

We are off to Albany tomorrow.

Day 16 - Thursday 27 August

Left Kulin this morning aiming to get to a free camp near Albany called Cosy Corner East.  We had a look at the map and decided on the path less travelled.  We kept off the main highways and didn't come across any caravans until we got on to the Southern Highway and then it was only a couple. We have seen so many vans on the road.  It seems that every second caravan in Australia is travelling in WA.

We went through Mt Barker which is a wine producing district and decided to call in to a winery.  I selected one called Galafrey Winery because of its association with Doctor Who.  Deb and Jan's Dad, Phil is a fan of the Doctor and is also a wine lover.  The wines from this winery are top notch as reflected in their prices.  Bernie bought a couple of clean skins, they call them bin ends here, of Cav Merlot for $8 a bottle and it is not bad stuff.  We stopped in a nice park in Mt Barker for lunch.

 Galafrey Wines Cellar Door

View from Cellar Door

Our tour guide, Deb had a look for things to do in Albany and one of the attractions was a sandle wood factory.  We drove past this factory on our way into Albany so decided to call in.  We got there just as a tour started so they put us in to watch the DVD then took us into the retail area where they demonstrated the process undertaking to refine the oil etc.  Really nice stuff but very expensive.  I don't thing we are the tourists the attraction was aiming for.

Cosy Corner East is very nice.  It is right on a beach and the area has defined numbered spots.  It makes it easier because in some areas people just stop where they please and it might prevent maximum use of the site.  Only problem with the place is limited connectivity. Have to walk down on to the beach or up to the toilets to get phone reception.  I have been able to ring my brother and his wife to let them know we are in the land of the living.

The wound in my neck is progressing well.  Deb has changed the dressing and is really pleased with the progress.  I know it will not be instantly healed but might take some time.

Day 17 - Friday 28 August

Had a sightseeing day today and also did some geocaching.  We drove into Albany to the Dog Rock Shopping Centre where there was a laundromat and did our accumulated washing.  We had a cuppa while we waited.

The washing was completed by 1030 so decided to go to the National Anzac Centre which is located at Princess Royal Fortress.  This is an old fort that dates back to the late 19th Century when there were problems with the Russians.  The fortress overlooks King George Sound where the First World War troop convoys formed up prior to being escorted to the war zones of Europe and the Middle East in 1914.

National Anzac Centre at Princess Royal Fortress

It was amazing that Australia was able to raise an army of 40,000 troops in just over 6 months.

The viewing platform on the headland overlooking the sound gives magnificent views of the sound, the islands in the sound and parts of Albany itself.  Bernie and I were able to reminisce about naval matters because they have a couple of 4.5 inch twin turrets (one from HMAS Swan) some single and twin Bofors mounts as well as missiles and torpedoes. We might not have used the 4.5's, the missiles or the Bofors but we knew where they came from.  While we were looking at things Naval, Deb and Jan did some geocaching.

View from Princess Royal Fortres

The National Anzac Centre looked really nice from the outside.  We went in, used the toilets and left.  The cost of visiting the centre was really expensive.  It was $24 per adult and not a lot less for a concession holders.  It worked out for a family it would be about $60 to take the family through.  A lot of money if you were limited to a budget.

From Princess Royal Fortress we went down to Emu Point and had lunch at the Squid Shack. We all had Red Emperor and chips with a couple of squid rings each.  There was plenty of food.  I managed all my fish but left a few chips.

Did some grocery shopping after lunch and then some sightseeing around Albany.  There are some very nice houses that make the best of the geography of the location.  Albany is quite hilly and some of the best views are of the harbour.  After our tour we took Jan to see a dentist.  She had a chipped tooth and it was cutting the inside of her cheek.

To reward Jan for being so good and not making a fuss about going to the dentist we took her to a favourite retail outlet of hers, an Op Shop.  It was located as part of a church and next door was the church hall where they had a craft market where we purchased some cauliflower pickles, apricot jam and some nice smelly things for Deb to put in her cupboard.

Had a really nice dinner this evening.  While we were at Dog Rock Shops Jan got a deboned chook stuffed with Camembert and bacon.  Cooked it in the Baby Q with chat potatoes and corn on the cob. A meal fit for a King.

Not sure what tomorrow will bring, the only thing for certain is the Albany Farmers Market.

Day 18 - Saturday 29 August

Albany Farmers Market was our destination this morning, however they proved to be a little disappointing. It was a very small area with about 18 to 20 stalls.The produce was mostly it  organic but there wasn't a great range or variety. 

After a bit of a look around we decided to head for Denmark where there were a number of places with things like honey, Meade, cheese, sauces and chocolate.  Our first port of call in Denmark was the Tourist Information Centre where we got some very good ideas of where to go.  The girl there pointed us in the right direction with the map highlighted with the route we should take.

Before we left the Information Centre we visited the chocolatier that is actually in the centre.  He had just opened up.  We each picked a chocolate, mine was a tropical hedgehog, Deb had a jelly slice, Bernie's was a single malt whiskey and Jan had wild peppermint. We also shared a white chocolate and mulberry pie.  The pie had a chocolate biscuit crust that was to die for.  (The pie was only a couple of inches in diameter).

We then followed the tourist trail to The Lake House.  This is a winery but they also produce sauces both sweet and savoury, jams and relishes.  We didn't taste a wine but gave everything else a try.  We bought a couple of things. It would have been nice to get one of everything but we are limited by space and cost.  There were some interesting flavour combinations.

The next stop was a cheese place. It looked good from the outside but there were only 4 cheeses to taste. They must have had at least 20 types of cheeses for sale but only had the garlic and chives, cumin and clove, cheddar and blue cheese out for tasting.  I did like the cumin and cloves.  It tasted really nice.

A meadery was the next stop on the tasting drive.  They did not have their full range though because the weekend before last there was a medieval festival where they sold a lot of their stock.  There were still a number to taste along with about 20 varieties of honey.   The consensus of opinion from the four of us was that the Mallee honey was the tastiest.

The last call on our tour was a toffee and cider place.  It was actually called The Toffee Factory with a Bit on the Side.  The bit on the side was referring to the sauces, jams and other condiments produced there.

After our food tour we headed back to our camp site.  We went via Denmark where we picked up bread and I filled with fuel. Only had about 5.5 litres left in the tank.  I don't think I have ever let the fuel get that low.

Tried our hand at geocaching on the way back as we decided to go via the back roads rather than the main highway. Managed to get 3, two of which were very cunningly hidden.

Lunch was a gourmet affair. We had fresh bread from Denmark, Liverworst from the cheese place, cauliflower pickles from the church stall in Albany and cheese from Woolworths.  Lunch also included Dukah that we purchased from Galafrey Winery near Mt Barker. Yummmm!!!

After lunch which was a bit lateish the weather started to deteriorate so we decided to batten down the hatches and stay inside for a while.  The rain didn't eventuate so decided to walk down to the beach.  This achieved two things, one was to get outside for a walk and the other was to call Mum and Dad as there was a little bit of service on the beach.  Had to cut the call short as the rain came down with a vengeance.  Rained for about 40 minutes and then out comes the sun.

Our original plans for tomorrow were to go to Denmark. Reckon they will now have to be revised. A call for "Plan B".

Day 19 - Sunday 30 August

We are going to stay at a free camp at Wattle Creek Vineyard.   It is near a little town called Greenbushes.  Our route today took us from Cosy Corner East to Denmark, Walpole, Manjimup and Bridgetown.

We had morning tea at Walpole.  Deb and I recognised the place from our last visit and remembered they had a good bakery.  I decided we should repeat the exercise so I got some bread rolls for lunch and some apple crumble slice to share for morning tea.

Over morning tea we decided to go back a bit and visit the Tree Top Walk.  Jan and Bernie hadn't done it before while we had.  This would be out third time.  The walk was just as good as I remembered, the climb was relatively easy, however I don't remember it swaying as much. On our previous visits there weren't as many people on the walk. We arrived just after a bus load of people. Both Jan and Bernie enjoyed the experience.

The Tree Top Walk

We returned to Walpole for lunch.  We had left the Donchi's car and caravan there as well as our caravan. We just took our car to the Tree Top Walk.  It is a bit easier to unhook our vehicle.  When we tried to open the boot of the caravan to turn off the gas ready for travelling the lock jammed and no matter how much we twisted and turned it noting would happen so we called the RAC of WA.

They had to get in touch with the NRMA because they didn't normally deal with caravans.  Luckily I had taken out the premium cover before we left Gunnedah.  Authorisation was duely given and their serviceman turned up in his own car, wearing trackies and thongs.  He said he didn't think he could do much but he would give it a go.  He did the same things that we had been doing but maybe a little harder and low and behold, click it unlocked.  Can't praise both the RAC of WA and the NRMA enough for their service.  Both organisations rang to let us know what was going on.

Once the boot lock was fixed we headed for our camp.  We put the latitude and longitude into the GPS and she pointed us in the right direction. Haven't given the new GPS a name yet so I will just call it she for the moment.

Wattle Ridge Winery is a nice place to stay.  There are just the two a of us here and the owners have said we can use it for the next couple of days.  One of them will come back tomorrow afternoon to give us a taste of their wines.  It has a flushing loo as well.  Much nicer smelling that the long drops we have been using.

Wattle Grove Cellar Door

The unfortunate part is that the vines are all dead.  They have been poisoned because the owners are trying to sell their property and people do not want to buy small acreages where they have to do a lot of work.

We'll have a look around Bridgetown tomorrow.

Day 20 - Monday 20 August

Pleasant stay at Wattle Ridge overnight.  It was very cold overnight but has started to warm up a little as the day progresses.  We have decided to get underway at 9.00 am so we don't have to get up early and rush around.

Went into Bridgetown where most of the buildings in the Main Street are heritages listed.  They have plaques on the outside showing what they were and when they were built.  Most of the buildings were build between 1890 and about 1905.  The area around here was a mineral area, not gold but tin.  Alluvial tin was discovered here before gold at Kalgoorlie so they was a lot of movement between here and Kalgoorlie.

Just after we started our walk through the town it started to rain.  We kept going for a while but it got a bit heavy so we headed for "The Cidery" where we were able to taste a number of both alcoholic and non-alcoholic ciders. A couple of the alcoholic ones tasted like soft drink and I reckon you could quickly become unstuck.

Because of the rain we decided to get some lunch to take back to the caravans.  We had lunch in our own 'vans and then had afternoon tea together.  Just as we finished our coffee/tea Jim Henderson one of the owners turned up as promised to give us a taste of their wares.  Vicki his wife said that someone would be up when she met us yesterday afternoon. She said that there would be no obligation to buy but she would like to show us their products.

Wattle Ridge

Our Caravans at Wattle Ridge

We all spent a pleasant hour or so listening to some of the stories of the vineyard and the development of the labels for their wines.  There is a lot taken into account when designing the labels for any product and wines are no exception. We also tasted a few and walked away with 3 bottles of their Cav Sav 2006 vintage.  We tried their 2007 and 2008 as well but the 2006 was superior.  We also got a couple of jars of pickled grapes. Something to have with cheese and bickies.

As mentioned earlier it has been raining off and on for the day.  It is also very cold.  I think I will be wearing my socks to bed again tonight.  This caravan is very good but a pop top doesn't have the same insulated qualities as a full caravan.  It will be better when we travel north.

Tomorrow Busselton is our destination.